Hassan… land of Jainism… and ancient Hindu history.. Keeping
in view that the year was fast approaching towards the end and I had not done
justice to my year Goal “Lots of Short travels”, it was decided that Diwali
would be a nice time.
The places of interest : Halebidu, Belur, ShravanaBelagola.
Halebidu was unique with two Hindu temples and two Jain temples – dated back to
1100 and 1300 CE. So an ideal place to start.
The route : Bangalore -> Nelamangala -> Hassan ->
Halebidu -> Belur -> Sravanabelagola -> Bangalore.
Deepak’s family, his Cousin Amal’s family and my family ..
two cars. Ertiga, Polo. Kids found their seat comfortable in the last row. They
just freaked out…
We started by around 6:30 am.. via outer ring road, onto
Yeshwanthpur, onto Nelamangala and then the four lane towards Hassan..
The first break was at Coffee day for breakfast (between
Kunigal and BC cross). The coffee was good, so was the sandwich.. But the idly
was Yuk… As they say in China eat like a Chinese – eat the cat/ eat the snake…
never ask him to prepare Biriyani J..
Halebidu was still far away – about 100km… The road upto
Hassan is good, but afterwards towards Halebidu is pretty bad with widespread potholes
and a stretch of 1km over a barrage that is still getting done. For about 30km,
it took us about 1 hour. On the way we also saw the ISRO Master Control
facility at Hassan. Reaching Halebidu the panoramic view of the lake is
beautiful sight… with small row boats floating around. Evidence that the
builders of the city have thought of the water management.
The Hoysaleshwara
temple is just amazing. The intricacies of the stone work and the pillars are
just breath taking…. A large Mahaveera statue can also be found on the right
hand side of the temple complex. ASI has also setup a small outdoor museum with
the temple remains explaining each of the sculpture. Two large Monolith Nandi’s
face two different Shiva deities. The temple is also characterized by lush greenery.
Lots of Grass banks and tress for people to rest under. It is evident that ASI
has done a commendable job in maintaining and resurrecting the temple from it
ruins.
We skipped the Jain temples and the Kedareshwara temple,
because of lack of time. Road from Halebid to Belur is short 16 km, but pretty
much the same state as that of the Hassan Halebid road.
On arrival at Belur we had Lunch at the KSTDC hotel. Decent
food, and ample parking space. The Roti and dal were the ones that I liked the
most. The staff was very courteous and attended to us with courtesy even though
there was lots of folks.
It was 3 by the time we ended up at the Belur Cehnnakeshava
temple, walking distance from the hotel. Read the link for further
elicitation of the importance and history of the temple. On entering the temple
I almost felt a deja vu. It looked pretty much similar to Brihadeeshwara
temple in Thanjavur, in terms of its Vastu, vastness and temple compound. The temple is dedicated to Lord Vishnu, but
the key part for me was the way the dome was constructed. The Keystone is
actually a Narasimha moorthy piece. There are lots of celestial dancers (in the
form of smaller stones) attached to the main dome. The pillars, each one of
them non identical had work done as though to indicate a precision cut diamond.
Smooth finish yet with lots and lots of smaller concentric circles.
The main attraction was the Gravity
pillar, supposed to be used as a Lamp post, but is not been used for quite some
time now. It is a 42 feet tall lamp post, the Karthika Deepotsava Stambha. It
is supposed to be "foundationless" or "baseless" post is
simply placed over a stone platform, this tall monolithic granite column is
symbolic of the excellence of architectural science possessed by the architects.
Even today this column, by its stature and stability, baffles the visitors from
the world over. It is supposed to be standing on its own dead weight, therefore
it is also called "The Gravity Pillar". People claim they could pass
paper underneath the pillar, but in the true sense it is just a single piece of
stone kept as a dead weight but has not fallen for years now…. Approaching 1000
years.. in the rains, in the wind and in the midst of acute heat wave.
A temple pond adorns the right side of
the complex. Lots of Fishes in them, which are being continuously fed by the
temple staff. The outer constructions are reminiscent of the fact that it was
also an asylum for the saints and visitors of the temple.
After spending an hour at the temple,
we decided to head our way back to Bangalore. After much thought, we decided to
do Shravanabelagola the next time around, though it was on the way. It would have
been difficult to make it by the time before dark. The road from Belur to Hassan is a nice
stretch, but with a few humps in between. At Hassan town, the roads are pretty
bad. The stretch up to Bangalore was good with some intermittent rains. Back to
Bangalore by 20:00 hours.. Rejuvenated..
What irked me was only the railway cross between
Yeshwanthpur and the way folks haphazardly try to make their own way by
squeezing in.. Especially the Cabs and the Autos.. Sometimes I believe it was
just a case of some of the auto folks being “upgraded” to drive cabs that has
caused this chaos.. Not to mentions some of the “White collar” educated B*****s
who think the road was laid by their forefathers.. Not even adhering to the “Queue”
at the Toll booths..
Next up : another short trip.. but where? Thalkad? Or Hindupur?..
options are open..
On the Highway...
Hoysaleshwara temple
The raised platform and the intricate works
Dwarapalakas.. Hands and nose have been cut off
Ganesha at the entrance
Pranav exploring
Nandi
Chenna Keshava entrance
Garuda .. bowing to the lord
The pond.
The pillars
The keystone.. Narasimha
The Gravity Pillar aka. lamp post
Panorama
The entrance with rain clouds in the background